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Longueville Manor
Article Posted: Monday June 24th
Article last updated on: Monday June 24th
Longueville Manor, Jersey, C.I. Just across the English Channel, or if you are French just off the coast of Northern France in La Manche, lie the Channel Islands. This small group of islands have been English since a Norman, King William the Conqueror, had King Harold of England eye-balled from his mortal sceptre in 1066. The islanders are a hardy lot: they survived the only invasion of British shores - by the Nazis during the second World War - and have now been free again for fifty-one years. The two largest islands, Jersey and Guernsey (land of my forefathers) are today tax havens. Jersey, in particular has made a fortune out of saving tax for the rather rich, although throughout the centuries they have been famous for their outstanding farm produce. My own family had a number of farms, and a cousin still has the papers that trace ownership back to 1385, proving that farming has been a way of life for Guernseymen and Jerseymen for generations. When I visited Jersey in the very early Spring, the sight which astounded me most was the vast acres of plastic which cover almost every piece of available farm land. It took some moments before my bemused brain fathomed why they were there; to protect potatoes, Jersey Royals no less, the sweetest new potato in the world apart from the Guernsey. The competition to get these tasty tubers onto the international vegetable markets before Christmas is quite incredible. Then they strive to maintain the flow until new potatoes from other parts of the world flood the market with cheap and fairly cheerful tatties. Why do I bang on about vegetables when this is a travel piece? Precisely because it highlights a travel benefit: the islands wonderful micro-climate. A native taxi driver aged about sixty, (that's ten more than the top speed limit) was amazed to see deeper snow in February 1996 than he had ever experienced in his life. Five inches fell one morning, creating traffic chaos, but the snow lasted only four or five hours before it all melted. A rather temperate climate, don't you know. Jersey also has an abundance of fish. If you did not farm in the old days, you fished or knitted sweaters. (Where would the world have been without sweater girls?) Shell fish, white fish, all fish, so fresh that one wonders if they will jump out of the pan when being cooked - unless they are oysters, when of course raw is best. Sadly in recent years native oysters have been prone to disease so the oyster men make their living by farming the rock variety. These are delicious. The beaches are wonderful havens for the sun worshipper and the sand- castle builder alike. There are also splendid rocky beaches - where the oysters grow - and even here there is enough sand to play on. There are now three vineyards on Jersey. One seems to make rather Germanic style wines, another has just started and the third makes some excellent whites which develope well in the bottle. I even tasted a good Pinot Noir from this vineyard. However they say it can only be made exceptionally, in really hot summers, which I found a little surprising as, normally, they have such good weather. One can sail there, fly or take a ferry. I flew British Airways in a 737, the most comfortable way of getting to Jersey that I have tried. My last flight was in an 800 series Viscount, - or was it a Vanguard, both of them turbo prop aircraft - and that was eight years or so ago. I have sailed there and, boy, make sure the wind is not too strong otherwise you finish up in France, twelve miles away. The ferries from the South coast of England have vastly improved since my first trip in the '50's. They now have cabins, so you don't have to stay out on deck throughout! > Where to stay? Well, where better than the 1992 British Hotel of the Year, Longueville Manor. Three generations of the Lewis family have run this superb establishment over the last forty years. Today Malcolm Lewis and his sister Sue Dufty hold the reins and guide the hotel to the best 'manor' possible. This 13th. Century Manor is beautifully decorated and furnished with arresting antique styles. There are several garden suites which overlook the landscaped park and gardens with swimming pool. I was fortunate to be staying in one of these luxurious suites with direct access onto the gardens. Arriving late in the afternoon I still had time to wander in the gardens breathing fresh air and taking in the beautiful building before it was time for a drink in the comfortable bar. Dinner on my first night was a couple of miles away at the Village Bistro, which has a 'Red M'. The award was justified, the food super. The fish as fresh as if it had just popped from the sea to the pan. The service was very friendly and helpful and the surroundings relaxed and informal. An extensive wine list had a good selection without forcing one to pay huge sums to find wines to enjoy. Very well worth the visit. The next morning I ordered smoked haddock with a poached egg for breakfast with the usual O.J. and fresh coffee. Words leave me it was so good. How very nice to be able have something so different for breakfast, other than the usual bacon and eggs, to indulge in when staying away from home. Malcolm Lewis is a very good companion and guide and he showed me around the island after my morning feast. He was interested in talking about the Internet and Malcolm stirred up my interest in this small island next to the smaller one of my ancestors. Among the many things on the itinery, we did sneak a look at a rather nice house, and on the market for the modest sum of nine million or so stirling! This had me wondering, what if? What if what, you say: well what if my family weren't black sheep and still had those farms. On the other hand they might be just like me, 'agneau noirs', enjoying life and not worrying, saying a bottle a day keeps the Doctor away. I was lucky enough to visit the Jersey Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries experimental station which was well worth the time, if only to taste their tomatoes, the plants were ten feet tall and still growing. The ministry keeps the island farmers up to date with the latest and best proven species of vegetative life. It is a free service and one appreciated by the farmers. I now can say what tomatoes do taste of without relying on my memory, confused by all the red balls offered in shops and restaurants around the world today. That evening dinner was at Longueville Manor and what a dinner that was. Wow! I had the locally caught Jersey lobster to start. It was the best I have had for more years than I can remember. Succulent, soft, full of flavour and cooked to perfection. ( and I know my lobos). The Sea Bass as a main course was so good it still has me salivating. I was offered a great selection of cheeses and puddings but I am almost sure that I refused to indulge in anymore pleasures of the palate. Well, I can lie beautifully. They were excellent. The wine list is tip top, and, if you insist on enough time to read it there is great excitement to be had. Longueville Manor looks after both the inner man and outer man with supreme deference. A hotel with superb, relaxed service and one where anybody can enjoy the exquisite environs, the ambience, and outstanding food and wine. A trip into the kitchens was fun, seeing all the ultra fresh produce, and meeting the Chef who has won many awards for the excellence of his cuisine. Talking food and ideals I learnt that he has scallops hand fished from the sea bed. And finally let me end with beds: here they allow you to luxuriate in a really comfortable eight foot bed, so invitingly comfy as to be ridiculous, but fitting the mood and decor of the suite with palacial bathroom. The hotel is, to use metaphors from a seafaring island race, so finely tuned it will sail smoothly in the most enjoyable balmy conditions, always remain calm in the most difficult weather conditions and be a smooth ship that will never be in the doldrums. This is an ideal hotel to rest ones weary bones and be pampered, whether on pleasure or business: Longueville Manor seems to me to be a really great place for a honeymoon, a romantic anniversary, an affair, or just to go and relax - as I did. Longueville Manor, St. Saviour, Jersey, JE2 7SA, Channel Islands.
Telephone 44 (0)1534 25501--Fax 44 (0)134 31613 Flights were arranged by Executive and Business Travel. St Helier, Jersey C.I. 44 (0)1534 58733. ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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