Alain Ducasse at London’s
Dorcester Hotel
November 2008
The flagship of London’s
Hotels is The Dorchester in Park Lane. Over looking Hyde Park its presence commands
respect and offers style; service is brilliant to perhaps over face many.
Alain Duchasse is one of the
very top French chefs and his presence here in London warms my heart. He gets
away from the flashy television chefs we have here in Britain. M. Ducasse is
not one to swear at his brigade; he leads and delegates to the best of the best
in his kitchen. So when I was invited to try his The Lunch Hour menu I was delighted.
I was asked at lunch or
dinner, it happened that dinner was better for me. Arriving at the Dorc I asked
for The Lunch Hour restaurant, everybody was confused as there is no restaurant
by that name.
At last a member of staff
said ‘Sir, I think you mean a menu in Alain Ducasse’s restaurant. Ah! Yes you must be correct’
I replied. Off we trotted, we, because Diana Beatty was my guest who was
slightly confused; whereas I was totally confused But arriving at the white
reception desk we were welcomed like long lost relations.
A glass of champagne was
offered, which we both enjoyed very much indeed, so much so that Lady Di’s was
empty in a flash. Poor girl had driven for six hours to meet me and needed refreshment.
We enjoyed sorting out the
delightful sounding dishes; shall we have this or that?
My first priority was the
wine – of course, I chose the Viogioner, a wine
from the Northern Rhone. This grape variety is now grown worldwide but nowhere
is it as good as from the Rhone. The spicy and weightiness are excellent with
many meat dishes.
Then more decisions, my first
choice was the soft-boiled organic EGG, crayfish and wild mushrooms, Nantua
sauce Œuf bio mollet, écrevisses et champignons des bois,
sauce Nantua.
Was this a dish to set before
a king? You had better believe it, it was gorgeous.
Madame ordered simmered duck
FOIE GRAS, mango
JOHN DORY“goujonnettes”,
coconut and curry sauce Goujonnettes de Saint-Pierre, sauce coco-curry. My tiny taste
confirmed her choice was excellent, in fact Diana smiled all the way to the
next course.
Diana’s next course was Seared
gilt-head BREAM, cep mushrooms and potato gnocchi Filet de daurade royale
à la plancha, cèpes et gnocchi cuisinés ensemble. A delicious
selection, a great dish, and one to eat every time you are in the Dorcester.
I continued with one of my
favourite things:
Seared SEA SCALLOPS, apples
and quince cooked in salted butter Noix de Saint-Jacques dorées, pommes
et coings en beaux morceaux rótis au beurre demi-sel.
Need I say more, it was terrific,
my mouth still waters thinking about the scallops.
We finished our dinner with
light puddings and very good expresso
coffees
